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Category Archives: Wishlist
I am usually found in a coat and tie but, sometimes I like to dress down with only a sweater during spring. Sweaters usually give the wearer a bit more comfort than the traditional jacket. You gain more maneuverability and feel less restricted in a sweater. The only problem I have is that I lose the jacket pockets. I am one of those people that carry around a lot of items and would have to wear cargo pants to replace the lack of pockets. Here are some sweaters I want from the spring collections.
Dior Homme Double Breasted Knit Cardigan – Dior Homme has a great navy 6×2 double breasted cardigan this season. I do not see many double breasted knit cardigans and I am surprised Dior Homme is offering one this season. The fabric composition is 70% wool and 30% silk and it has a very nice hand. Even though this cardigan is presented without a jacket I would recommend wearing one; I find it a bit off without it.
Boglioli Cotton Maxi Ribbed Knit Cardigan – Whenever I think of Boglioli, I think of their over-dyed cotton and wool jackets. Their items are usually on the casual side and recently they have been offering other items instead of traditional tailoring. This sweater reflects their casual aesthetic and can easily replace the usual blazer.
Thom Browne Woven Check Whale Cashmere Sweater – I have a lot of Thom Browne sweaters and I wear them quite frequently. Being very slight, they fit me perfectly. I usually wear a size 1 and the size 0 is too tight in the shoulders. When the sweater is too tight in the shoulders, the neck opening is often distorted causing very unsightly pulls. This sweater has a steep price point and the main reason os because of the whale intarisa. The center whale is created by changing to different color yarns as its being knit. The motif and the whale are a single piece without seams. This process is very tedious and at times can be very complicated. (PS: The whale shorts are amazing)
Jil Sander Wool Tricot Cardigan – A lot of you have been asking for color blocked pieces and I really like this cardigan from Jil Sander. The color blocking is done in a very “Mondrian-esque” way and I think this would be a fun piece to pair with a navy suit. The shirt shown under the cardigan is also very interesting as it is a wool tricot t-shirt. I have a cashmere tee shirt from Lucien Pellat Finet and I wear it as though it was a crewneck sweater.
Maison Martin Margiela Dyed Hem Cotton Jumper – I am not the biggest fan of Margiela and was not very happy with their collaboration with H&M. However, this cotton jumper is one of the ultimate spring sweaters. The colors are all very light and I really like the details on the hems. Usually, manufactures would dip dye the garment to achieve the effect and Margiela instead opted to spray the hems with dye.
Seraphin Buffalo Leather Biker Jacket – This Paris-based company makes some of the best leather jackets in the world. Their products are all made by traditional leather artisans in France and they use some of the best leathers in the world. The owners of Seraphin believe that natural traits of each leather should be showcased and celebrated and they steer away from artificial finishes. They are so particular on the natural finishes they would travel to exotic locations such as Sudan, Svalbard and Eritrea just to find fabric sources. This biker jacket is made out of buffalo leather and you can notice the unique grain pattern it has. Seraphin has been around since 1975 and they manufacture all the leather jackets for Hermès. This fashion house has to be one of the more underrated ones and I hope people will begin to take notice to their superior quality.
Balmain Full-Grain Leather Jacket – Balmain is always great as their pieces fit very well on smaller set people. Their jackets always fit me very well with the exception of sleeve length. The sleeve length on leather jackets does not bother me too much and would love to add this jacket to my collection. I really like Balmain’s take on the traditional asymmetrical leather jacket as it is cleaner and not as busy as a many. Whenever I think about biker jackets, I think about the Schott Perfecto and I never really liked the hardware, belt and the number of pockets it has. Balmain substituted those features with two zipper pockets on the sleeve and they also removed the snap buttons on the collar and this creates a much cleaner look.
Rick Owens New Rover Stripped Leather Jacket – This Rick Owens jacket is similar to one which I had a few years ago. The pockets on these jackets are very unique as they extend all the way to the bottom of the jacket. You are to carry a ton of stuff in them without it showing due to the unique drape these jackets have. The jacket would usually extend to the sides and would hang out giving you a void between the jacket and your body.
Visvim Elmendorf Italia A-2 Cordovan Jacket- I saw this jacket the other day and immediately wanted one. This jacket is modeled off of an A-2 bomber jacket and where originally worn by American Air Force pilots in World War Two. Instead of the traditional calf leather, Visvim manufactured this jacket out of cordovan. Cordovan has to be one of the most durable leathers around as it does not take a crease and is waterproof. I wish that they would have choosen a different cordovan tannery instead of the industry standard, Horween. This is a Visvim jacket and they usually source their materials from extremely rare sources. Nonetheless, this jacket is remarkable and the breast pocket feature makes up for the Horween cordovan.
Belstaff Preston Leather Jacket – This English company has been outdated for a long time and none of their products really appealed to me. However, they recently introduced a higher end line which is excellent. The newer line offers great pieces that resemble the older more classic pieces but have different fabrics and fits. This jacket resembles their classic roadster jacket but is being offered in a dark green leather. The roadster was Belstaff’s iconic jacket for motorcyclists and was usually offered in waxed cotton. WIth this new line, they have honered their traditions and have created motorcyclist clothing. Some pieces from the fall/winter collection include leather motorcycle pants, biking boots and roadster jackets in various materials. Belstaff is a company to keep an eye on.
Leather jackets are usually one of the more expensive pieces in one’s wardrobe. You can easily spend two thousand dollars on one and I feel like it really needs to payoff eventually. One way you can track whether or not an item pays off is by a “costs per wear” assessment. Take the price of the item and divide it by how many times you wear it or plan to wear it. You can track your wear by using TapTrak, a smartphone app which can track the number of wears on a piece of clothing. I recommend getting it if you are going to spend a lot on a piece of clothing. It really puts in perspective the value of your “investment”.
A few years ago, only a handful of labels manufactured down blazers. Now, it seems like everyone has their own version and they come in an assortment of fabrics and colors. I am a huge fan of the goose downed filled down blazer. Sometimes you do not want to wear a coat or outerwear in the winter as they are sometimes too bulky and cumbersome. With a warm enough down blazer you can be streamlined and it is one of the easiest pieces to wear in the winter. Here are some that blazers I may purchase this season.
Moncler Gamme Bleu Puppytooth Puffer – Moncler has been at the forefront of this “movement” and they, arguably, make the best down blazer on the market. They fit nearly identical to Thom Browne jackets and are expectinonal in quality. Many labels do not provide a sufficient amount of down and they are not very warm in the winter. Moncler Gamme Bleu may use too much down (never a problem) and a sweater underneath the jacket is suffiecnt in keeping you warm. Moncler mainly uses wool instead of nylon and this offers even more warmth. There are always little details that make Moncler Gamme Bleu’s down blazer the best in the market. All of their blazers have four working sleeve buttons, a breast pocket and fit perfectly. You never need to alter them as they have so much down that all the imperfections are “buffed” out. You would think that down can be very restricting in movement but, many of the newer versions have gussets making them extremely comfortable. Even though all of the woolens are treated with water repellents, Moncler has made their blazers even more waterproof by printing woolen fabrics on to nylon. You get a completely waterproof down blazer which still looks like a wool or tweed blazer. With the nylon and the gussets you can actually ski comfortably in these jackets (I cannot wait to do this). If you want the best down blazer on the market get one from Moncler Gamme Bleu.
Loro Piana Storm System Quilted Baby Cashmere Jacket - I have never been the biggest fan of Loro Piana due to their outrageous price-points and fragile fabrics. This is one of the only pieces I really like from them. The jacket is quilted and features baby cashmere lining making it extremely soft. The outer fabric is waterproof and you do not need to worry about getting soaked during those fall showers. This will fit most people of a heavier set but do not expect it to keep you warm in the colder months as it is extremely thin. (Here is the cheaper Loro Piana alternative, it comes in navy and does not have cashmere lining).
Epaulet Veneto Double-Breasted Quilted Technical Sportcoat – There are not that many double breasted down blazers on the market. I applaud Epaulet for making one and I wish more companies do the same. Everything about this jacket is perfect. It has diamond quilting, four working sleeve buttons, a breast pocket, interior pockets and seems to fit very well. I only wish that the quilting extended on to the lapels.
Brooks Brothers Black Fleece Flannel Quilted Jacket – The Brooks Brothers Black Fleece Quilted Down Blazer is a very close alternative to the Moncler Gamme Bleu version. They fit is slightly bigger and being about half the price, you do not get the full “perks” of the Moncler Gamme Bleu down blazer. The Black Fleece version has less down, no sleeve buttons, a single vent and actual buttons instead of snap-closures. The one thing that I really like about the Black Fleece version is the fact it has a ticket pocket. I have not seen a Moncler down blazer with a ticket pocket and would love to see one in the future. All in all, this is a great piece and I highly recommend it.
Dunhill Ellis Lightweight Quilted Jacket – I still cannot believe how many down blazers are on the market these days and there are just too many to choose from. Here is a Dunhill version which is quite standard. The shell is made out of a polyester and the wadding (stuffing/down) is made out of polyester. At $1,095 this is quite expensive for a bunch of poly. Regardless, it looks great and it has a breast pocket, a vent and a sleeve button.
Uniqlo Undercover Body Warm Lite Padded Jacket – The Uniqlo down blazer still exists! However this time, the jacket is a bit too busy for me and is too “Junya-esque” for me. This version is not from Uniqlo +J but Uniqlo Undercover, the new designer collection which replaced Jil Sander. I have always had some qualms about this line and the same feelings translate over to this piece. Many of the items in the collection have the “UU” logo and in general, I do not like outward branding. Overall, this is a great entry level piece and I am sure they will sell like hotcakes.
Aspesi Nylon Taffeta’ Bob Dry Blazer – I wish that the Uniqlo +J down blazer still existed as it was the best entry down blazers on the market. Unlike the Uniqlo Undercover blazer, it was simple and to the point. Now that it the +J version is gone, Aspesi’s down blazer is the best standard alternative. This piece has quite a low price point and makes a great entry down blazer. The shell is made out of 100% polymaide and will give you suitable protection against wet elements. These blazers have quite a bit down and will keep you warm in the winter. The two drawbacks are they do not have any vents or a breast pocket.