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Monthly Archives: August 2012
The market is flooded with mountaineering boots from many companies and I do not believe that people have actually seen a real mountaineering boot. Their are many designer copies of genuinely rugged ones and that look great but they never come close to the real thing. Scarpa, a bootmaker, helped produce a line of mountaineering boots for a Boston shoe repair shop. The founder of the shop, Fabiano, designed a line of boots and I was extremely fortunate to find a pair of them.
These boots are more than 40 years old and are virtually indestructible and can be resoled many times. They feature a Norwegian welt which make them more waterproof than a normally soled boot. Norwegian welted soles are when the uppers are turned outward and are stitched twice into the outsole and the insole. The uppers are made up of multiple layers of leather and this makes them suitable for extremely harsh environments. The materials and details of the boots make them extremely heavy making them weigh about eight pounds.
I am really happy that I finally obtained these boots. Finding these boots was an arduous task as many of these old outdoors companies did not have a standardized sizing system. The sizes of the boots almost never corresponded to the labeled size and customers buying these types of boots in stores would need to try on many boots before finding one that fit. I finally have them and hope that they last for another 40 years
How many pairs of pants should I have. – Ferguson
This all really depends on what kind of field of work you are in and whether or not you need certain pants for certain occasions. I would say that everyman in a major metropolitan area would need two wool pants for more formal occasions, blue and gray. Lightweight wools would be good for the summer and for the winter. You would simply put on long underwear in the winter. A pair of navy and khaki cotton pants for more casual days. Again, you can wear long underwear in the winter if they are not heavy enough. These are some of the absolute bare essentials. Pants are something you can never have too many of. No matter how high the quality is, pants will always get worn out some point in time. Usually the crotch area will blow out or the rear will eventually disintegrate. Buy as many pants as you can.
What are the leg opening of your pants? I found that your pants are really slim and they make you look great. – Hung Vu
Thank you. I usually try to go with a 7″ leg opening and try not to have them tapered too much from there.
I’m thinking of buying my first pair of tassel loafers, and I was wondering if it was worth dropping money on the Meermin versions. There’s been nothing but good press about Meermin dubmonks, and so I was wondering if this critical praise also extends to their loafers? – Randy
Shoes are shoes and if a shoemaker is good at one type of model then they should be good at all of them. The one thing you can check with tassel loafers is whether the tassels are glued or stitched on. Personally, I have not seen Meerim shoes in person and cannot say in confidence that they are well made. The pictures on the internet make them look absolutely fantastic and based off of them, I would love to have a pair (they are only €150).
Additionally, I’m thinking of altering an old blazer of mine with elbow patches. I know you have a great set of alligator patches on-site, but what other material would you recommend is appropriate for elbow patches on a cotton blazer. – Randy
Adding elbow patches to blazers always gives the jacket a more casual feel. I personally, do not like full grain leather for the patches. I like suede and would recommend it. Something in a dark brown would be nice. If you are feeling a bit daring, I would use white suede and change the buttons to white mother of pearl.
Who makes nice men suits for smaller, slimmer men? I am very small and short. Brands like , Thom browne for Black Fleece and Brunello Cucinelli run big even at their smallest sizes. Also what is your take on shoes from Premiata Uomo – Vic
It is hard for me to find clothes that fit me. Many good makers do not make sizes smaller than a 36 and even this size can be rare. The only maker that I can think of which makes a size smaller than 36 is Suit Supply. They make a 35 regular but only go down to a 38 in the shorts. I would definitely check them out. The quality of their items are very high and the prices are extremely reasonable. The only other option I can recommend is making made to measure or bespoke suit. It is very hard to find smaller sizes. As for Premiata Uomo, I have only seen them online and the shoes they make are not for me. The colors and fabrics are a bit too “trendy”.
Where do I get good ‘men’s skirt’ a la Marc Jacobs? I know, I know. My profession and my sexuality allows me to wear whatever I want, so I figure why the hell not skirt. It should work just fine with crispy white shirt and brogues. I can’t seem to find a good vintage where I live (Thailand). Also I tried to convince my tailor to make one for me but he just smirked. Any e-store I should check out? – Tom
Marc Jacobs usually wears skirts from Comme Des Garcons. Every season, they make some kind of skirt and I guess Marc accumulated a ton of these through the years. Rick Owens and Julius also usually have a black “ninja goth” skirt in their collections. Not many companies make the skirts you are looking for. This season, Givenchy made an interesting skirt and I am sure you have seen these all over the internet. Your best bet is asking your tailor to make you a skirt. I am sure some extra money will entice him to make you a skirt. If that doesn’t work, try looking through women’s skirts for the one you want. A women’s skirt cannot be all that different from a man’s.
I want to know how I can wear my Ralph Lauren blue blazer in a more contemporary way. I sometimes wear it with jeans and brogues which seem to be the most modern they can look. Any ideas? – emilleinoz
Jeans and sportcoats almost never look the way you want it to look. I would switch the jeans for cargo pants or work pants. I always like to mix very casual pieces with ones which are a bit more formal. The navy blazer is arguably the most versatile piece in a man’s wardrobe. Experiment a little.
How would you compare Boglioli and L.B.M 1911 in terms of their fit and fabric? Thanks – Eric
I try not to put the Lardini, L.B.M 1991 and Boglioli in the same category, but I do. They all make unconstructed jackets with a somewhat similar fit. From a pricepoint standpoint, Boglioli has the highest and L.B.M the lowest. That does not mean Boglioli is the best. Boglioli, in my opinion, makes the best cashmere jacket out of the bunch. I am honestly a little bias towards Boglioli because they have such a strong brand identity and make truly unique products. I still cannot get over the unstructured navy dinner jacket for Spring/Summer 2013. Lardini makes a wide range of products and have different types of models. They tend to experiment with different types of pockets and usually have a curved breast pocket. Lardini jackets also tend to have a higher breast pocket than the rest of the makers and I am not the biggest fan of this. L.B.M has the lowest retail prices out of the bunch and would say that it is the best bang for buck. All of the companies use superb fabrics and their fits are great.
You get a lot of haters, but thanks for your ASK section and blog as they are great tools in developing my own style. – Private Grave
Thanks. I always have an influx of haters here and there.