Ask Me Vol. 5 – A Clothing Guide for Thinner Guys

Can I wear a Navy Sportcoat with a pair of black jeans? Mind you, they’re slightly faded black jeans. – Geb
I always thought dark jeans with a sports coat looked kind of tacky. If you are going to wear jeans with a sports coat, I would suggest you wear the most distressed and beaten up pair you own. Wearing a darker pair of jeans with a sportscoat makes you look like you are trying to be somewhat dressy without going the full mile. Go the full mile and put on some wool trousers.

Brogues before hoes? – Allan

Trickers Brogues Ask Me Vol. 5   A Clothing Guide for Thinner Guys

How tall are you? – Tim

I saw you in midtown yesterday, around 57th and 5th. I didn’t want to bother you, but I liked what you wore yesterday. What were you wearing – the jacket, pants, and shoes? – Speigel S
Yesterday huh? I think I was wearing a Moncler Gamme Bleu navy peacoat, navy Giab’s pants, a Cucinelli vest and Crockett and Jones boots. Give me a shout next time you see me.

Austin, besides Zegna, is anyone making unconstructed, unlined made to measure suits. Zegna actually has the brown linen that I’m looking for, but they’ll only make it up in trousers, not a jacket. Anybody else I should check? Hope you’re well and have survived the fashion events. – AJ
Check out Isaia, their made to measure program is great and are willing to do almost anything. I would suggest you look into the “Sailor” model as it is shorter and unconstructed.

Isaia Sailor Jersey Jacket Ask Me Vol. 5   A Clothing Guide for Thinner Guys

I’m 5’5″, 135 lbs, and a 28 inch waist (and Asian, though I’m not sure if that’s relevant). Assuming we’re the same size (you look taller), I’m wondering what brands you like for fit because I’m having a hard time finding clothes that fit me. Could you list brands from different price ranges and categorize them by type of clothing? Thanks! – Stephen


Uniqlo – Pretty obvious choice here. I tend to stick with their pants a d shirts. They all fit me nearly perfectly. I have a few of the +J stuff and I love the fit of their shirts, stick to the slim fitted shirts (this may be irrelevant, since Uniqlo is discontinuing +J). As for the pants, I have a few pairs of their vintage chinos and their perfect shape cargos. Love them to death.


Gant by Michael Bastian – I love their cargo pays and sweaters. Fit is phenomenal. I never need to do anything to the sweaters or pants. I get a small in their sweaters and a waist 28 in their pants.

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece – Black Fleece tends to fit half a size larger then flagship Thom Browne. Their pants will fit you wonderfully but you will have some trouble with their jackets, they are a bit boxy. The quality (in my opinion) exceeds flagship Thom Browne exceptionally. Many of the new Thom Browne pieces are made in Japan by the same factory which produces Comme des Garçons and these pieces are not nearly as good as Black Fleece. If you need something “TB-esque”, go with Black Fleece.


Ovadia and Sons – I really like cargo pants and they make a great dressy one. They fit me great but you may need to slim the leg a tad. As for the shirts, extra small may be a big in the body for you, tailor it down.

Boglioli – Boglioli jackets feel great. Unconstructed and should fit you pretty well. I am sure that you will need to take in the jacket at the body though.

Thom Browne – I tend to wear lots of Thom Browne due to the fact it fits me perfectly. Across the board, I wear everything in a size 0 however, due to my bigger shoulders (from swimming as a kid) I am able to fit size 1. When I want a more conservative length for my jacket, I usually get a size 1 and taper the body.

Isaia – For the best bang for buck, I would go with Isaia. The quality is superb and almost everything is hand finished. I tend to wear a 36S in Isaia, (it’s quite a tough size to come by). I go with the short since I am accustom to the Thom Browne fit.  Look for the “Base S” and “Sailor” models, they generally have a shorter fit. Pants tend to be a bit big in the leg and I usually get them tapered.

Moncler Gamme Bleu – everything will fit you perfectly, the sleeves may be a tad bit long on you but everything else should be near flawless.  Down blazers all winter long.

Burberry Prorsum – I only have outerwear from Prorsum and I am very happy with every piece. I usually get a size 48 due to the fact, I wear jackets almost daily. I am guessing a size 46 will fit you perfectly.


Balmain – Everything fits great with the exception of the sleeve length. Balmain is also ridiculously overpriced.  Head to toe Balmain will get you ass (applies to all sexes and sexual orientations).
Balmain Fall Winter 2012 Ask Me Vol. 5   A Clothing Guide for Thinner Guys

Andrea Campagna – One of the coolest new designers out there. Highly highly recommend you check it out before it gets too popular. They do very fine tailored clothing with a youthful twist. Like Isaia, the quality is superb and if you get your hands on a piece check out the button holes.

Brunello Cucinelli – I have a ton of their stuff. They fit on the big side but I would definitely look into their pants, they do beautiful dripped dyed cargo pants and work pants (need to slim the waist and leg). The jackets will not fit you. I only have one of their jackets and was fortunate that it was extra short. On me, regular Cuci jackets are way too long and would look quite horrible even when tailored. If you can find extra smalls in their outerwear, buy it all, it is rare to come by and will fit you great.

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  • Andrei-ivantsov

    Hi! I’ve got a question regarding Thom Browne and Black Fleece sizing. The thing is that in the country I live (Russia) it is impossible to find neither Thom Browne nor Brooks Brothers stores or retailers. By some unknown set of circumstances (some sort of magic I guess) one retailer held Thom Browne just for one season. The prices were 1,5 times higher than online suggestions, as it always happens here, but finally I had an opportunity to try on Mr. Browne’s garments with the aim to buy them online later.I already own a heavy wool sportcoat by Thom Browne in size 3 and it fits me perfect. So I went with the same size in a Thom Browne suit during my fitting experiments in the store and was really disappointed that the trousers were too tight in the waist. It seems that I should go with size 3 in sportcoat and size 4 (that is though a bit loose for me) in the trousers. On the other hand I had a Black Fleece trousers tagged bb3, that fit me excellent. So the next step is buying a BB suit in size 3 online, but your remark about the boxy fitting jacket confused me. Do Black Fleece jacket really fit half a size bigger than Thom Browne ones? Is it possible to reduce these differences by some alterations, what do you think?
    P.S.: I’m quite impressed with the Thom Browne shades on the first pic in “StreetFSN – 10 Men Part 2″ post, don’t you know where can I find them online?